Postcard from Western Ireland
We say that someone from the Local Foreigner team is always on the road, visiting destinations across the globe - but we really mean always. Our monthly Postcard takes you along for the ride, and our whole team is just back from Western Ireland.
The entire island of Ireland packs a big punch, but its charms are especially easy to find in the almost impossibly scenic landscapes of the west. Whether you're wandering among the thatch-roofed houses and medieval ruins of Adare, which dates back to 1200 A.D., tracing the early lives of Oscar Wilde and George Moore in County Mayo, hanging your head out of the passenger window ogling the rugged coastlines, green pastures, and misty mountains of the Ring of Kerry, or posted up in a Doolin pub marveling at the talents of a local piper, Western Ireland is not stingy with its gifts.
Riddled with undeniable charm and a lyrical spirit, the Emerald Isle is a living folklore where visitors are enchanted by genuine hospitality and rich tradition. Seemingly plucked from a storybook, the streets of Galway, the trees of Killarney National Park, the colorful storefronts of Kenmare, the moonscapes of the Burren, and the wild fields of Kerry dizzy travelers with a potent elixir – a heady pint sipped to the song of a fiddle.
While May to September is peak season in Ireland, the country lends itself to long, cozy evenings and lazy mornings well; we love it in spring and fall as well.
Ashford Castle
Maybe it’s when you’re taking afternoon tea in the storied Connaught Room. Maybe it’s when you walk past a 13th century coat of arms in the great hall. Perhaps you feel it in the crisp air of your morning walk or in the crackling warmth of a roaring fire. Maybe it hits you during the third course of a tasting menu in the George V dining room or when a majestic Harris Hawk takes flight from the perch of your forearm. Perhaps it’s in the wooden bow of a boat gliding across Lough Corrib or the silk-lined walls of your decadently appointed suite. However the magic strikes you, there are a million ways to realize that Ashford Castle is a living Irish fairytale. | View the hotel
Adare Manor
Ireland is no stranger to the private estate-turned-hotel property - it seems as though every castle hotel or manor house has been the former home of some esoteric earl or obscure viscount. And while Adare Manor certainly finds itself wedged in this category, after a grand reopening in 2018, Adare Manor stands poised as one of Ireland’s best hotels. From its hulking neo-gothic exterior, across its meticulously manicured grounds, to its exquisitely designed rooms, no detail has been overlooked. And with a Tom Fazio designed golf course, an array of outdoor activities, and five distinct dining experiences, no matter how many days you spend at Adare, there will always be a reason to return. | View the hotel
Sheen Falls Lodge
Just outside of the charming town of Kenmare, rooms at Sheen Falls Lodge boast stunning views of Kenmare Bay or the cascading Sheen Falls. On-site activities such as horse riding, falconry, and clay-pigeon shooting are on offer, or head out to explore the estate’s 300 acres with scenic trails. Dining options include the casual Stables Brasserie and the fine dining Falls Restaurant, showcasing Ireland's renowned produce. But our favorite part? The incredible location along the world-famous Ring of Kerry and the edge of the Wild Atlantic Way. | View the hotel
Park Hotel Kenmare
This family-run Victorian hotel overlooking Kenmare Bay has all the charm you would imagine from a traditional Irish country house. However, there is also an immense degree of luxury. The Relais and Châteaux property has 46 rooms, elegantly designed with antiques and modern amenities, and a destination Samas spa, which is hands-down the best wellness center in Ireland. Guests can enjoy golf, tennis, croquet, hiking, fishing and horseback riding at this timeless property or take their pick of activities in surrounding Kenmare. | View the hotel
Guys Seafood Bar Clifden
Located on Main Street in the colorful coastal town of Clifden, Guy’s Bar has welcomed visitors to Connemara since 1903. Shane O’Grady has been the boss here since 2004. Known for its cozy snugs and warm turf fires, the food here is a happy surprise; it's also worth a stop in the evening, when the traditional Irish music gets going.
Ard Bia at Nimmos
Located beside Galway's famed Spanish Arch, beloved Ard Bia at Nimmos is set in a historic grey granite townhouse. The building’s roots stretch back to 1651, when it housed fishermen, traders, and lodgers; in the 19th century, it saw ships unloading exotic goods like Spanish wine and spices. Today, dishes like confit duck leg are served in a sun-dappled dining room.
O'Loclainn's Irish Whiskey Bar
One of those impossibly perfect pubs, with a worn wooden bar and an inviting green door, O’Loclainn’s has been serving the community of Ballyvaughan, County Clare, for six generations. This family-run joint has no tvs or wifi - the draw here is whiskey, and there's lots of it. (And co-owner Margaret is known to make a mean Irish coffee.)
Larkins
If you're looking for a local spot out of a postcard, with fires crackling in the fireplaces and generations of family photos on the walls, you could do a lot worse than Larkins. Perched on the edge of Lough Derg, this is the sort of place you meander to when you're looking for some fish and chips (and if you're lucky, the town cat may just make itself cozy on your lap while you enjoy a Smithwicks.)
Gregan's Castle
The charming Gregan's Castle, located in the heart of Ireland's otherworldly Burren, has been welcoming guests since the 1940s. But even if you're not looking to stay in the cozy country house, it's worth a trip for their fine dining restaurant - the kitchen serves up some of Ireland's best lamb dishes alongside produce grown onsite.
Mulcahys
If you weren't expecting to find a little culinary capital in the southwest corner of Ireland, you're in luck - Kenmare has more than its fair share of Michelin-recommended spots for a town of 2,500. Mulcahys has anchored the scene since 1995. Don't overthink it - start with the chicken liver pate and follow with the Beef Wellington.
Whiskey Bonding, Oyster Shucking, & The Cliffs of Moher
Your day begins with a scenic drive along Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way to the Burren, a unique karst landscape. In Ballyvaughan, meet Gerry, a local oyster farmer, and learn to shuck oysters while tasting the freshest available. Gerry, a marine biologist, shares fascinating insights into the area’s coastal history. Afterward, enjoy lunch at Linnane’s Bar, a 300-year-old thatched cottage with stunning bay views. Continue south to the Cliffs of Moher, exploring less-visited vantage points. End the day at an Irish farm, where you’ll meet a whiskey bonder and sample some of the finest Irish whiskeys.
Working Sheepdog Experience
Experience the charm of the medieval Caherconnell Stone Fort while delighting in the prowess of the "Captivating Caherconnell Collies." Watch as they respond to individual whistles, showcasing their farm dog skills against the ancient backdrop. Next, indulge in a "farm to fork" journey with a smoked cheese tasting. Savor artisan cheeses, ranging from young, creamy varieties to mature selections with bold, complex flavors. These tasty treats are crafted from the milk of free-roaming Holstein Friesian cows, grazing on pastures teeming with wild herbs and wildflowers just a few miles away.
Helicopter Day Trip to the Aran Islands
Departing by private chopper, enjoy a 25-minute flight over lush pasturelands and the majestic Cliffs of Moher. Experience their awe-inspiring beauty from the sky before continuing to the Aran Islands. On Inis Mor, explore traditional Irish culture with a local guide, visiting Kilronan and the ancient Dun Aonghusa fort, dating back over 2,500 years. See local artisans crafting Aran sweaters, known for their intricate designs. Afterward, enjoy a private picnic overlooking the cliffs before taking your chopper back to your hotel.
The Jewel Box
Take in the whole of the Emerald Isle, starting in Dublin and heading counter clockwise to explore the perimeter with a private driver guide.
Celt Belt
Ireland and Scotland share common folklore and traditions, but their landscapes differ - up your hiking intensity by going from Ireland's rolling hills to Scotland's windy peaks.
Cheese and Wine Pairing
Tawny port is a perfect pairing with Irish cheddar, and the non-stop flight from Shannon to Porto, Portugal makes it surprisingly easy to taste them each at the source.