Postcard from Tokyo + Kyoto
We say that someone from the Local Foreigner team is always on the road, visiting destinations across the globe - but we really mean always. Our monthly Postcard takes you along for the ride, and this month, we're just back from Japan's marquee cities, Tokyo and Kyoto.
Japan doesn't have an off season - in the spring, the pink sakura take center stage; in the fall, it's the blazing leaves; and in the winter, the world class skiing. The Land of the Rising Sun is consistently one of our most-requested locations, thanks to its incredible depth of culture, history, art, and - of course - its food. It's a place that merits return visits, as the cities are so vast that you'll inevitably return with a desire to dive deeper, duck behind more noren curtains, and visit farther geographic reaches. We could have waxed poetic about dozens of hotels and hundreds of restaurants across the country, but below you'll find the recommendations that thrilled us on our most recent visit.
Tokyo is an exhilarating and confusing city of extremes. It’s both modern and traditional, intimate and overwhelming, and the juxtapositions are mind-blowing. Navigating the world's largest metropolis can be a daunting prospect for those new to the city, but anyone with an adventurous spirit will relish the opportunity to figure out the subway system, and Tokyo's maze of neighborhoods seems to offer up every imaginable sight, sound, and flavor.
Often spoken of in contrast to its big sibling to the east, Kyoto is home to the serene cherry blossom-lined streets of the Philosopher’s Path (Tetsugaku no michi) and kimono-clad Geishas and Maiko still showcase centuries of tradition. But it's also a city that has whole-heartedly embraced all things modern - think of Kyoto as a living museum, where ancient temples like Kinkaku-ji (the Golden Pavilion) and Kiyomizu-dera stand in harmonious contrast to the bustling streets of Gion.
Your best manners
Slip-on shoes (and matching socks)
An adventurous appetite
Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Otemachi
Step off the elevator into the lobby and you'll immediately be struck by the city views out the floor-to-ceiling windows, on the far side of a tranquil water feature swooshing across the ground. No hotel in the city has better vistas of the imperial gardens or Mount Fuji. The décor toes the lines between refined international elegance and subtle Asian motifs - you'll instantly know that you're in a Four Seasons, but also never forget that you're in Japan. | View the hotel
Janu Tokyo
A big kon'nichiwa to Janu Tokyo, the flagship of the much-anticipated sister brand to Aman Hotels. Occupying seven stories of a shiny new tower, Janu's ethos is buzzy and vibrant; as such, the hotel offers eight dining venues and bars, and a sprawling 4,000 square-meter wellness space (which includes Tokyo's largest gym). The 122 guestrooms and suites are consistent with Aman's minimalist yet inviting style. Janu is the only hotel in the newly-developed Azabudai Hills, a purpose-designed neighborhood complex with eye-catching architecture that echoes New York's Little Island. | View the hotel
The Shinmonzen
Located in Kyoto's historic Gion district and clad in a traditional dark wood exterior, the Shinmonzen reimagines the traditional ryokan inn with a blend of heritage and contemporary style. It's a Japanese jewelbox designed by renowned architect Tadao Ando, complemented by contemporary art curated throughout and cuisine by Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Each of the nine suites blends Kyoto craftsmanship with modern design elements like wood finishes, shoji screens, and tatami mats, and special details abound, like French-silver door handles and balconies adorned with jasmine. | View the hotel
Hotel The Mitsui Kyoto
A relative newcomer, 161-room Hotel the Mitsui is situated along the western bank of Kyoto's Kamo River. Bedrooms were designed by the visionary André Fu using a palette of light wood and sage greens; architect Akira Kuryu was responsible for the discreet and streamlined exterior. Guests are invited to explore the art of the matcha tea ceremony and take a dip in the thermal spas. Views are over the lush interior garden or the majestic Nijo Castle, and as the hotel was formerly the residence of the Mitsui family, the property stands as the foremost Japanese-owned luxury hotel in Kyoto. | View the hotel
Aman Tokyo
In a city known for sensory overload, the Aman Tokyo is an oasis of calm. The hotel’s 84 rooms and suites feature a minimalist aesthetic that marries Japanese tradition with contemporary design. Soji screens made of delicate washi paper, granite furo tubs, and kanji symbol artwork give rooms a deeply rooted sense of place, while spacious layouts and king size beds (and room service from the on-site Italian restaurant) provide western travelers with familiar creature comforts. | View the hotel
HOSHINOYA Tokyo
Inspired by the traditional Japanese ryokan, Hoshinoya Tokyo was designed by architect Rie Azuma. Guests are greeted by an intricate lattice exterior reminiscent of Edo period kimono patterns, and the expansive entrance hall is adorned with woven baskets for shoes, signaling a departure from the urban hustle. Each of the 84 rooms feature tatami flooring and custom-made mattresses, but the highlight is the exclusive onsen, fed by natural hot springs from beneath the hotel, which offers panoramic views of Tokyo's skyline. | View the hotel
The Ritz-Carlton, Kyoto
Situated on the banks of the Kamogawa River overlooking a cluster of mountains, the Ritz Carlton is the perfect home base from which to venture into downtown Kyoto and its surrounding districts. The hotel, which celebrates its tenth anniversary this year, was designed to evoke traditional Japanese elegance, with handmade details and crafts by local artisans. There is particular attention paid to engaging with the local community and environmental sustainability, reflected in a slew of location-specific activities such as Japanese floral design, soap making, and traditional origami classes. | View the hotel
Four Seasons Hotel Kyoto
Inspired by the region's serene temples and Zen gardens, and perfectly positioned in the Higashiyama district near cultural gems like the Kyoto National Museum and bustling Kyoto Station, the meticulously designed rooms at Four Seasons Kyoto offer serene views of the 12th-century Shakusui-en pond garden. And while access to the city's highlights are on the hotel's doorstep, staying inside the oasis is also an option - from Zen meditation to pottery making, Four Seasons Kyoto is committed to showcasing local creators and championing eco-friendly practices. | View the hotel
Rosewood Miyakojima
Japan will become an even more comprehensive and dynamic travel destination with the arrival of Rosewood’s island resort in Okinawa, set for later this year. White sand beaches on three sides mark the brand’s first Japanese foray.
Tokyo TeamLab Borderless Tour
Immerse yourself in the captivating blend of art and technology at this expansive museum that promises to awaken all your senses. TeamLab Borderless is a group of artworks that form one continuous, borderless world. Artworks move out of the rooms freely, form connections and relationships with people, communicate with other works, influence and sometimes intermingle with each other, and have the same concept of time as the human body. Wander through the world, exploring with intention, creating and discovering a new world with others.
Tokyo Japanese Tea Ceremony
Experience the ancient Japanese cultural art form of a Japanese tea ceremony. The simple yet significant ritual includes matcha preparation and presentation in an elaborate set of actions executed in perfect order. At face value, it is about appreciating every moment we have with one another. On a more ethereal level, it’s about discovering meaning in every detail.
Kyoto Private Taiko Drums Experience with Instructor
Learn the art and significance in Japanese culture of Taiko during your rhythmic Taiko drum private experience in a temple. Your professional Taiko instructor will share stories about the origins of Taiko and its role in traditional festivals, ceremonies and Samurai culture dating back centuries. As you are immersing yourself in the rhythmic beats of the Taiko drums, you will gain appreciation for this art form while gaining a deeper understanding of the historical and cultural heritage that it represents in Kyoto and Japan as a whole.
Kyoto Private Ikebana Flower Arranging Class
This lesson will touch on the connection between the samurai's way of life and the artistry of flower arrangement. Set in a stunning venue, this experience goes beyond aesthetics, revealing the samurai's philosophy of mind, heart, and breath in flower arranging. Guided by a master, you'll discover the art's intricate techniques and symbolic depths, offering insight into the samurai's commitment to precision and mindfulness. Immerse yourself in this meditative process, discovering the spiritual essence of bushido through Ikebana's transformative beauty.
PST Higashi Azabu
Pizza may not be the first highlight that comes to mind when thinking of the Tokyo culinary landscape, but it should be on the list - and Pizza Studio Tamaki (PST) stands out as one of Tokyo's best spots for a pie. PST is celebrated for its Neapolitan-style pizzas, with light, chewy bases and a puffy crust. Cooked in a wood-fired oven at searing temperatures, each pizza boasts a perfect balance of char and flavor, enhanced by a pinch of salt thrown into the oven. Monthly specials showcase seasonal ingredients like Hiroshima oysters and yuzu paste. | See the restaurant
Kyubey
Open since 1935, this is the go-to place for the freshest sushi in a slightly more casual atmosphere. The fish, chosen daily from the Tsukiji fish market, is sliced thinly, and placed on perfectly seasoned rice. Don't miss the famed "dancing shrimp" nigiri (wiggling shrimp served live), and if you need some liquid courage to face these new delights, Suntory Master's Dream on draft is the move here. | See the restaurant
Ramen Nishiki
Exquisite housemade noodles in pristine broth are the star at this quintessential restaurant in Kyoto’s iconic Gion district. Housed in a traditional Machiya-style townhouse, Ramen Nishiki offers up a variety of ramen and a range of delectable sides. The open kitchen offers views to ramen chefs in their element. | See the restaurant
Tempura Endo Yasaka (North)
Savor lightly fried golden morsels of shrimp and vegetables at Kyoto’s Tempura Endo Yasaka. The over a century old eatery serves perfectly fried Kyoto-style tempura in a picturesque setting. Situated in historic Gion, the elegantly understated restaurant features traditional tatami floors and large windows overlooking a serene zen garden. | See the restaurant
Fuku Yakitori
At this charming neighborhood yakitori shop in Yoyogi Uehara, you'll be seated amongst locals. The traditional charcoal grill at the center of FUKU Yakitori allows guests to view their skewers being grilled in tandem from one of the 16 counter seats. The large menu includes traditional chicken parts as well as skewered veggies, tofu, and shellfish, some of which is wrapped in bacon! Don't miss out on the seasonal daily specials. | See the restaurant
Shima
Venture to a nondescript basement in Nihonbashi, a neighborhood just northeast of Ginza, to find Shima, a literal haven of Wagyu beef. Chef Manabu Oshima sources his beef from his native Kyoto, and ages them himself. The eatery is now Insta-famous for their indulgent take-away Wagyu sandwich made with fluffy milk bread. Sandwiches aside, the restaurant serves a decadent sit-down dinner which offers various cuts of premium Wagyu, seafood appetizers, and other treats. | See the restaurant
Monk
The consensus favorite on Local Foreigner's recent trip, organic restaurant Monk specializes in wood-fired cuisine and is the kind of place locals don't want you to know about. The restaurant serves a seven-course tasting menu, including a seasonal soup, roasted vegetables, and the fan-favorite pizza. Monk's hospitable young chef, Yoshihiro Imai, perfects the experience with his thoughtful techniques and diligent preparation. | See the restaurant
LURRA°
Meaning 'the Earth', 'the Moon', and 'coordinates' in Basque, Lurra takes diners on a global culinary journey. From Indian papadams to Mexican tacos, each dish reflects a different corner of the world. The restaurant is run by Noma alum Jacob Kear and offers 12 counter seats in a 120-year-old Machiya (traditional Japanese townhouse). | See the restaurant
Grandfather's
Grandfather's, which has been open for 40 years, is still playing the '70s hits, especially AOR, funk, and soul, all pulled from their extensive library of vinyl. Founded by Hitotsubashi University students in 1971, the staff is always on a quest for timeless tunes, embodying the spirit of yesteryears through its decor and menu, and inviting patrons to relive the retro vibe. | See the bar
Bar Trench
Step off a narrow Ebisu alleyway and into Bar Trench, and suddenly you'll feel transported to Belle Epoque Paris. The intimate setting - there's barely room for 10 at the bar - is enhanced by bartenders' vested uniforms and the room's book shelf-lined walls. Creative cocktails are the name of the game here. Go for the Long After Midnight or Old Danish Barrel. If you're lucky, local jazz musicians will set the mood as they perform from a precarious shelf above the bar. If Trench is too crowded, head across the street to its sister, Bar Tram. | See the bar
Bar K6
Bar K6 is a Kyoto classic, renowned for its extensive array of sakes - it boasts an impressive collection of over 1,200 varieties, alongside approximately 600 Scottish single malts, including prized rarities. The Scottish bent extends to the food menu (how many sakes do you need to be convinced to try haggis pizza?) A quintessential experience not to be missed for anyone seeking a memorable tipple. | See the bar
Bar Brown Sugar
Great tunes spinning on vinyl, a whiskey-heavy cocktail list, an entrance hidden up a stairway, and a requirement to leave your shoes in a little wooden locker at the door - Bar Brown Sugar is pure Kyoto cool. Tuck into one of the semi-private booths and spend the night under the sparkles of your own disco ball. | See the bar
The Temple Tour
If the living museum of Kyoto and the city shrines of Tokyo don't satisfy your culture appetite, head north from the capital to UNESCO World Heritage Nikko and its brand-new Ritz Carlton Nikko.
Japow
Steaming bowls of ramen, long soaks in hot onsens, and some of the world's best powder - there's a reason serious skiers adore Niseko, and the Park Hyatt Niseko is a world-class ski hotel.
The Aman Junkie
Make the Aman circuit a triumvirate by including some r&r time at Amanemu, the brand's ryokon-inspired onsen resort among the trees in Ise Shima National Park.
Tatami Time
On the Izu Peninsula, you'll find Asaba, a gorgeous, quiet ryokan on a site that was first a monastery and then a destination for Noh theater. For travelers who want a deep dive into Japanese serenity.