Industry Insider: Flavors of Sicily
Living the good life at Verdura Resort & Rocco Forte Private Villas with Fulvio Pierangelini, Creative Director of Food at Rocco Forte Hotels
The world is wide, but there’s no place like Italy – for history, culture, gorgeous beaches, incredible hotels, and (perhaps most importantly), for food. And while we send travelers on epic trips all over the globe, it’s no surprise that Italy is the country that consistently occupies the top spot on our most-requested list – it’s a place where “wellness” is not just a marketing buzzword, but a holistic sensibility that extends far past the plate and the yoga mat.
While Italian landmarks have major staying power (they don’t call Rome the “Eternal City” for nothing), in recent years, another region of the country has taken center stage – Sicily. The island, just west of “the boot,” is a world unto itself; an appearance on the most recent season of White Lotus raised awareness of the baroque architecture and romantic coastlines around Taormina, on the island’s east coast. But spend a few hours crossing the island by car, and you end up among the verdant, rolling hills of the west coast, where forts and castles built by feuding powers over the centuries stand sentry overlooking the sea. It’s here, among 230 hectares of ancient olive groves and fragrant orchards, that you’ll find Verdura Resort & Rocco Forte Private Villas, the flagship resort from the iconic Anglo-Italian hospitality brand Rocco Forte Hotels.
Verdura is an exception to every rule you’ve heard about travel to Italy in the summer – while many destinations are crowded, busy, and hot, at Verdura, everything slows down. This is a place for families splashing in one of the pools, couples taking time out for tennis, and groups of friends enjoying a round of golf with views out toward the Mediterranean Sea. It’s a place for mornings exploring the Valley of the Temples and afternoons spent in the 43,000 square foot Irene Forte Spa. And through it all, it’s a place for learning about the unique Sicilian culture of crossroads in the best way possible – through food.
Fulvio Pierangelini, the Creative Director of Food at Rocco Forte Hotels, is no stranger to idyllic culinary destinations. Born in Rome, Pierangelini's early experiences were deeply rooted in the love and tradition of home-cooked meals. His earliest memories are of his mother cooking expansively and devotedly for the family, instilling in him an early appreciation for the art of cooking. This foundation became the cornerstone of his culinary career, which began modestly in the 1970s.
While Pierangelini's first job was as a lifeguard and later a sailing instructor, he spent his free time watching and occasionally assisting with kitchen tasks. “I remember endless boxes of green beans and peas to peel,” he says, “and as soon as possible, I started inviting people home and preparing my first small dishes for them.” In 1977, he opened his first seasonal restaurant on a beach, a venture run with a group of friends and more as a hobby than a business.
In 1980, almost by chance, Pierangelini opened his restaurant Gambero Rosso in a remote area with no market research or substantial financial backing. “I just wanted to be able to cook and watch the sunset over the sea from the windows. I did not aspire to anything else,” he says wistfully. Driven purely by his passion for cooking, the restaurant eventually gained international recognition. But Pierangelini felt like there was more for him. “I understood, in the meantime, that I have cooking in my DNA and a talent that was given to me, and for which I have no merit. But I realized that I lacked the technique, so I decided to spend some weeks in France to learn it. I went to my only master, Roger Vergé, who had three Michelin stars on the French Riviera. It was a shock.” The experience was transformative, blending joy and sacrifice, and solidified Pierangelini's reputation in the culinary world.
Pierangelini's encounter with Sir Rocco Forte at his restaurant marked the beginning of a significant partnership. They shared a vision of simple luxury and culinary excellence, leading to Pierangelini's involvement with Rocco Forte Hotels. Despite the shift from running his own restaurant to designing culinary programs for a chain of luxury hotels, Pierangelini's approach remained grounded in his passion for food.
Each hotel under the Rocco Forte brand has its own unique story, reflected in the menus curated by Pierangelini, so creating culinary programs for Rocco Forte Hotels has involved a careful balance between consistency and local authenticity. While some classic recipes remain a constant across the properties, each restaurant's offerings are tailored to the local ingredients and culinary traditions of its location. This approach not only respects the diverse lifestyles and cultures of each country but also maintains the integrity of Pierangelini's cooking philosophy, which is deeply personal. “I believe chefs are one of the last bulwarks against the standardization of taste and defenders of biodiversity. Every choice we make, no matter how infinitesimal, can become a social act.”
Pierangelini's commitment to celebrating local ingredients and culinary traditions is evident in his work at Verdura Resort & Rocco Forte Private Villas in Sicily. “Sicilian cuisine is a synthesis of centuries of history and dominations between the Phoenician, Greek, Roman, Arab, French, German, and Spanish. Each domination has left its mark in food as in architecture; we can detect the ‘encrustations’ of the various cultures.” He cites the Arab influence, in particular, as having introduced a variety of products and techniques, such as the use of sugar, saffron, and spices, which have become integral to Sicilian gastronomy.
Verdura Resort's organic garden exemplifies the farm-to-fork philosophy that Pierangelini champions. The garden produces a wide range of seasonal vegetables, fruits, and herbs, which are used in the resort's restaurants and cooking classes and alongside other local products. “Sicily has unique characteristics: fertility, quality of the earth and exposure to the sun. The result is wonderful oil, generous wine, tomatoes with a unique taste, eggplants, herbs, the tastiest ricotta cheese in the world, seas rich of fish and shellfish with an incomparable flavor.” This hands-on approach allows guests to engage deeply with Sicilian culinary traditions, offering an immersive experience that connects them with the land and its produce. “There is a shed for cooking lessons in the garden, called ‘la casetta nell’orto’ and if you ask me, it is the most cultural place in the resort.”
The dishes at Verdura reflect the bounty of the Sicilian landscape. Signature dishes include Sicilian shrimp salad with green beans and citrus sauce from the garden, and broadbean creamed “macco” with red prawns from Mazara del Vallo. These dishes, while distinct, embody Pierangelini's cooking style: intrinsic, natural, and evocative of comforting, familiar tastes that stimulate a deeply ingrained sense of place.
The focus at Verdura is on wellness, but “wellness” in Sicily is a far cry from the diet-and-deprivation connotations the word may evoke for many American travelers. At Verdura, wellness is synonymous with vibrant, flavorful dishes made from the freshest ingredients. Pierangelini puts it simply: “Diet menus are too often sad and punitive. So in Verdura we select the freshest raw materials, impeccable technique and intriguing recipes to create meals full of colors, flavor and perfumes.” And his ideal summer lunch at Verdura epitomizes this philosophy: a glass of Etna rosé, grilled calamari, and mango from neighboring Sciacca. After lunch, a visit to the Irene Forte Spa is practically a must – as the Rocco Forte Wellness strategy emphasizes the five pillars of nourishment, fitness, mental wellbeing, community, and sustainability, the culinary and spa concepts work in harmony.
If this peek into the good life has you wanting to move in permanently, Verdura has an answer: Rocco Forte Private Villas, their elegant 3- and 4-bedroom villas overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and Sicilian countryside. Guests in the private villas enjoy exclusive experiences, such as family bike rides through beautiful Caltabellotta, cooking classes featuring Sicilian recipes, and picnics in the sun-dappled Diodoros Gardens against the backdrop of Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples. Verdùland Kids Club offers junior guests a tailored program of activities, allowing adults to relax and enjoy the resort's amenities, including long, lazy lunches inspired by the Maestro himself.
Designed by Olga Polizzi, the villas are inspired by traditional Sicilian farmhouses, with flat roofs and balanced proportions, while the warm, earthy colors pay homage to the Sicilian tuff rock. Each is an example of modern sustainable architecture, integrated into the surrounding estate, and is designed around airy, elegant interiors and peaceful courtyards for indoor-outdoor living and easy access to sunny swimming pools. Arranged over two levels, the villas ensure privacy and security, and guests have access to exclusive use of golf buggies and electric bikes, two complimentary green fees per villa, and housekeeping. A personal concierge service can organize local Sicilian experiences, including private chef services so the magical ingredients of the local terroir can be enjoyed in your own dining room.
Verdura Resort & Rocco Forte Private Villas are something unique in the Italian hotel landscape – this is a true resort, with the space (and the pace) that connotes. We asked Pierangelini what he hopes guests bring home with them from their stay, and he had an answer immediately. “Memories, magic, and a bottle of our extra virgin olive oil.” Sounds like wellness to us.
For those wishing to extend their stay in Sicily, Villa Igiea, Verdura Resort’s sister property in Palermo, is a perfect pairing. Let’s get planning!