Ballyfin
Hotel Name: Ballyfin Demesne
Number of Rooms: 21
Location: About 90 minutes from either Dublin or Shannon in the Slieve Bloom Mountains, County Laois (that’s pronounced Leesh, for those of you who want to impress your taxi driver)
The most purely indulgent place to rest your head in all of Ireland, Ballyfin Demesne is a 614-acre estate located in the heather-washed hills of the Slieve Bloom mountains -- a seemingly impossible 90-minutes from Dublin. Since World War I, Ballyfin has collected the eccentric histories necessary of a proper country house, including being owned by the likely combination of the 13th Baronet Coote, a Catholic teaching order, and an American billionaire. It was the latter, who along with his Irish-born wife, transformed the property into what it is today: an opulent display of luxury in idyllic surrounds. The goal of any stay at Ballyfin is connecting with its deeply rooted character, whether that be in the form of guided walks along the grounds, lessons in beekeeping, or time with a good book next to the roaring fire in the 5,000-volume library. Service here is befitting of royalty, without the pomp and circumstance, and meals are Michelin quality without the gravitas. At Ballyfin, everything is as it should be.
What We Loved: If Ashford Castle is the amenity-rich superstar that’s sold a bit of her soul to Hollywood, and Adare Manor is the jackets-required power player who might be a bit too formal for her own good, then Ballyfin is that just-right middle ground where style, and character, and service coalesce with a relaxed, easygoing atmosphere.
What We Didn’t Love: If a non-stop schedule of activities is what you’re after, Ballyfin will prove disappointing.
Right For: If Jane Austen was a wealthy Irish woman, these would be her stomping grounds. Do with that what you will.
Wrong For: Children are welcome, but not catered to. Ballyfin is the kind of place where brisk morning walks and whiskey tastings can take up the better part of a day. If those are things you can get your kid excited about, then you’ve clearly mastered the art of parenting better than the rest of us.
Best Time to Visit: Ballyfin is an exquisite place to simply be, no matter the weather outside. Though traditional high season run from May-October.
TLF Tip: If you’ve ever dreamt of starring in a period drama, then boy do we have the place for you. Ballyfin’s collection of 40 regency costumes (provided by the Lyric Opera Company in Chicago) can outfit your entire group, so you’ll look the part for your special banquet dinner. During pre-dinner drinks, Ballyfin's photographer will be on hand to photograph all participants individually and in group shots using the spectacular settings of Ballyfin as a backdrop.