Postcard from Mexico City
We say that someone from the Local Foreigner team is always on the road, visiting destinations across the globe - but we really mean always. Our monthly Postcard takes you along for the ride, and this month, we're just back from Mexico City.
The beating heart of Mexico, Distrito Federal's charm lies within the tangle of its urban sprawl - the cacophony of the cry of the tamale vendor at breakfast, the scrape of the ladle in search of atole, the hum of the subway, the whir of fuming traffic. It's a city that feels impossible to know, until your first plate of al pastor -- pork fat and pineapple juice dripping down your wrists -- distills an entire place into a single bite.
Set at an altitude of over 7,300 feet, the sprawling capital of Mexico isn't short on history or major landmarks, including the ancient Aztec temple Templo Mayor, the grand Metropolitan Cathedral, and the opulent Palacio de Bellas Artes. But the real charm comes from the individual neighborhoods - the colorful streets of Coyoacán, where Frida Kahlo's Blue House offers a glimpse into the life of the iconic artist; the trendy district of Roma, where tree-lined avenues and hip cafes provide a perfect backdrop for leisurely strolls; and Polanco, known for its boutiques and restaurants. And - of course - there's the food, with diners clamoring for the palm-sized street tacos topped with diced white onion and Pujol's nearly decade-old Mole Madre in equal measure.
Huraches
Your appetite
A stash of napkins
Four Seasons Hotel Mexico City
A clay-colored, hacienda-style property set on the bustling Paseo de la Reforma, the Four Seasons Hotel Mexico City commands a stately presence. Inside its grand corridors, a who’s who of Mexican elite take up their regular spots in the leafy inner courtyard, where riots of bougainvillea climb terra cotta walls and the city’s smartest birds sing from banana trees. If you need an afternoon off from exploring surrounding Polanco, the rooftop pool is waiting for you, and when you get hungry, the four on-property food and beverage options make a great case for staying in. Our favorite is the renowned cocktail bar, Fifty Mils – don’t leave the property without sampling one of its boundary-pushing cocktails, whose creative presentations are often as wild as its ingredients. | View the hotel
Las Alcobas
Located in the sophisticated neighborhood of Polanco, the 35-room boutique Las Alcobas is a chic alternative to the area’s larger luxury brands. Designed by Yabu Pushelberg, Las Alcobas features the New York designer’s signature sleek design paired with locally made furnishings and artwork. Along with an acclaimed on-site spa, the hotel’s two on-site restaurants, Anatol and Dulce Patria, are considered destination dining for all Mexico city visitors. | View the hotel
Casa Polanco
Housed in an elegantly renovated Spanish Revival-style mansion in the posh Polanco neighborhood, a stay at Casa Polanco feels like a peek inside the lives of well-to-do chilangos. The owner of the hotel originally planned to rent out the mansion to an embassy, but realized Polanco is the perfect destination for travelers seeking a charming and walkable neighborhood. While many CDMX hotels play to classic heritage motifs, Casa Polanco shows off a different side of the city. Here, the lines are clean, neutrals take precedence, and there's a subtle prep-school flavor with houndstooth pillows and plaid napkins. | View the hotel
La Valise
La Valise is a chic townhouse that has been transformed into a boutique design hotel. Located in the hip La Roma neighborhood, which has a Soho/Nolita/Chelsea feel, the property is walking distance to great bars, independent designer boutiques (not big box brands), and some of the best new up and coming restaurants in town. Though the hotel opened with three suites a decade ago, a major expansion/renovation was unveiled in January 2024, meaning this micro-boutique is now a little less micro, clocking in at a whopping eight rooms. | View the hotel
Rosewood Mexico City
Rosewood will go sleek and contemporary when it opens in Polanco in 2025, expanding the brand's Mexican footprint that already includes Cabo, Mayakoba, and San Miguel de Allende (with Mandarina also on the horizon.)
El Turix
As you take your first bite of your cochinita pibil, you'll understand why El Turix has gained a cult following among locals and visitors alike. This local joint serves its tacos Yucatán-style, which means heavy on the citrus; it's the perfect spot for a quick and authentic lunch.
Taquería El Califa de León
Last month, Taquería El Califa de León, a modest taco stand in the San Rafael neighborhood, became the first Mexican taco stand to earn a Michelin star. The stand offers just four menu items, and owner Rivera Martínez emphasizes the use of only tortilla, red or green sauce, and high-quality, thinly sliced beef filet seasoned with salt and lime.
Panderia Rosetta
Arguably serving the best pastries in Mexico City, Panderia Rosetta is perfect for a simple breakfast or afternoon sweet treat. The bakery, which has two locations in the city, is an offshoot of Elena Reygada's famed Rosetta, so patrons can expect the same commitment to quality and seasonal ingredients as the beloved Italian restaurant. Don't miss classic bakery treats like the guava and ricotta danish or the sugar-crusted concha, Mexico's favorite shell-shaped pastry.
Churrería El Moro
Churrería El Moro is very aesthetically pleasing, with clean blue and white design, and the 24/7 original location in Centro Histórico has a huge window onto the main event: giant spirals of dough getting fried until golden and tossed in cinnamon sugar. Now a mini-chain with five outposts in the city, there's no geographical excuse not to stop for a sweet snack.
Pujol
The restaurant that travelers center their Mexico City stay around, Pujol is Chef Enrique Olvera's crowning achievement. At this reservations-required hotspot, diners can choose between the formal dining room's multi-course tasting menu or the more casual "taco omakase" at the buzzy bar. No matter where you sit, you'll be treated to Olvera's famed mole madre -- a dish that pays homage to Mexican cuisine's multi-layered heritage.
Maximo Bistrot
Set in a corner spot in the heart of La Roma, Maximo Bistrot is one of the city's culinary gems. The space is low-lit and understated inside, with a half-open kitchen where you can see line cooks at work. Maximo is a true farm-to-table restaurant and includes a menu that changes frequently to reflect the seasons and availability of local produce. The food is refined and upscale, but retains a bistro-style simplicity: think crisp-skinned trout with clams and velvety chicken liver to spread on toast with sweet cherries.
Traditional Mexican Cooking Class
Enjoy an authentic experience in the historic center of Mexico City through a unique cooking class hosted in a stunning 17th century house. The cooking class is hosted by the founders of the program, who have created this experience to give back to their community and teach visitors about traditional techniques using fresh ingredients. After the class, you’ll enjoy the fruits of your labor and a delicious lunch!
Lunch at Xochimilco Agroecological Project
Spend the morning in the canals of Xochimilco. Ride in what were once a complex system of lakes, canals, and islands, and experience truly calm waters and a traditional boat ride in a trajinera. End your boat ride at an agroecological island that practices agriculture traditions from pre-Hispanic times, where you'll enjoy a tasty lunch made from products grown on this land.
Teotihuacan Day Trip
Journey to the Teotihuacan pyramids, an ancient marvel an hour from Mexico City. With your archeologist guide, you'll explore the Moon, Sun, and Feathered Serpent pyramids. Marvel at vibrant murals and architectural genius that shaped societies. Enjoy a local lunch before visiting Acolman Monastery, witnessing pre-Columbian and Spanish influences through 16th-century murals.
Buzz and Beach
Once you land in CDMX, you've already taken care of half the job of getting to the more remote parts of Mexico; pair the frenetic energy of the city with Four Seasons Tamarindo, one of the brand's most under-the-radar properties, on Jalisco's jungled coast.
Back-to-Bacronym
It takes just four hours by private transfer to get from the hustle of CDMX (Ciudad de México) to the haven of SMDA (San Miguel de Allende), a tiny artists' town to the northwest that's awash in citrus hues and dripping with charm.
A Capital Idea
Mexico City's size makes it a major air hub, including several non-stop fights per day between CDMX and Madrid. Why not pair the two to really put your high school Spanish to the test?