Postcard from the Island of Hawaii
We say that someone from the Local Foreigner team is always on the road, visiting destinations across the globe - but we really mean always. Our monthly Postcard takes you along for the ride, and this month, we're just back from the Island of Hawaii.
If you need to know anything about the Big Island, it’s this: wearing “slippas” (what locals call flip flops) is considered dressing up. Across the island you’ll find bare-chested surfers picking up morning coffee and local kids running through grocery stores barefoot. The dramatic black lava fields around Kona give way to prehistoric valleys on the northern tip of the island; stop to marvel at the thunderous 'Akaka Falls en route to the bounteous farmers' markets and botanical gardens in Hilo. And for dramatic moonscapes, there's no beating Volcanoes National Park.
It might be the youngest Hawaiian island, but the Big Island is the best destination to experience Old Hawaii. A place where dirt roads curve around coastal cliffsides and local businesses shutter before 9pm, the Big Island is known for its endearingly slow pace of life. But the Big Island’s quaint demeanor isn’t its only allure. Visitors come for its spectacular typographical diversity -- here, it’s possible to snowboard the snowcapped summit of Mauna Kea, watch lava sputter from an active volcano, and drive past hilly pastures and cattle ranches, all before catching the sun dip below the horizon line of the Pacific.
Farm Rio & Reyn Spooner
Your driver's license - The Big Island is best explored by car
A fresh pedicure
Four Seasons Resort Hualalai
Four Seasons Resort Hualalai is a brand-name hotel in a tried-and-true vacation destination that somehow feels like your little secret. The magic here is that this is an authentic Hawaiian sanctuary where rooms are arranged in 5 crescents surrounding one of eight pools or the private golf course, strung like pearls along the Pacific. On-property experiences draw on subtle cultural and natural touchstones – look for sandalwood oil from Háloa Áina’s native Hawaiian 'Iliahi forest on the slopes of Mauna Loa next to your massage table and rock salt from the local volcanic flats at one of four dining venues. Plus, it's the only resort on the island that's home to its own resident eagle ray, Kainalu, who lives in a private snorkeling aquarium alongside more than 1,000 tropical fish, tended by a team of on-site biologists. | View the hotel
Mauna Lani, Auberge Resorts Collection
A buzzy beacon on the Kohala Coast, Mauna Lani strikes the right balance of fun and sophistication, attracting young 30- and 40-somethings, whether they're toting toddlers or tequilas (though those are not mutually exclusive), especially to their Oceanfront Residences, two-bedroom private homes that offer 4,000 square feet of space and private pools. In typical Auberge fashion, the hotel hits the nail on the head when it comes to local experiences -- join Uncle Danny, the resort's resident "knowledge keeper" to talk local lore on the great lawn, try your hand at the ukulele, or search for petroglyphs along Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail. And if that's all a bit too active for your taste, load up your itinerary with spa appointments and trips to Hawaii's only Goop Store. | View the hotel
Kona Village, A Rosewood Resort
Kona Village is centered in a beautiful cove that makes a wonderful spot for swimming and water sports - including the west coast's only sail canoe experience, an activity with ties to Kahuwai Bay and the navigators who would frequent it. Pathways wind throughout the resort, connecting the common spaces with the standalone cottages known as hales, designed after traditional Hawaiian homes and featuring delightfully clever touches like speakers disguised as coconuts. You'll feel good about staying at the Rosewood, as the entire property is powered by solar and totally off the grid, and you'll feel good while staying here, as each of the five f&b outlets has its own signature mai tai. | View the hotel
Mauna Kea Beach Hotel
Envisioned by Laurance Rockefeller, the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel opened in 1965 as the first mid-century modern resort on the Kohala Coast. The on-property collection of Hawaiian and Asia-Pacific art is impressive and there's adventure to be found (don't miss the moonlight snorkel with manta rays, conducted without boats or motors to ensure sustainability and education), but some of the best amenities in the resort complex, which also includes the Westin Hapuna Beach Resort, are family-friendly, such as an array of watersport activities, movie nights, and complimentary cookies. So how can the island's first resort be called a New Kid on the Block? The current renovation, to the tune of over $200 million, means a comprehensive redesign of rooms, suites, dining outlets, wellness center with destination spa, and gardens focusing on indigenous and endemic fauna species is underway, honoring tradition while polishing up the Mauna Kea for its next act. | View the hotel
Ululani's Hawaiian Shave Ice
Shave ice is a revered Hawaiian tradition, and and on the Big Island, the best way to experience it is at Ululani's. Don't settle for imitations - this place has perfected the art of this beloved dessert's creamy consistency and top-to-bottom flavor. Order the No Ka Oi: mango, coconut, and passion fruit shave ice, top it with fresh coconut and mochi, and finish it off with a snowcap, a sweet condensed milk topping.
Fresh Off the Grid
After a hike through the prehistoric landscape of the Pololū Valley Lookout, there's nothing like a smoothie or poke bowl from Fresh Off the Grid. You can't miss it - just look for the bright yellow food truck surrounded by hibiscus in the middle of nowhere - and then take your tasties over to the Adirondack chairs with views over the ocean. There's nothing but water between you and Alaska.
Kuleana Rum Shack
Located at Queens' MarketPlace, the Rum Shack offers authentic Hawaiian food and spirits. Savor Kuleana Rum cocktails alongside local cuisine - we especially like the Hilo Sling, a twist on the Singapore Sling, and the HI Punch with mango sorbet - and don't forget to grab a bottle to take home.
Shipwreck Bar & Sushi
A nod to a 1960s Hollywood favorite, Rosewood has reintroduced the iconic Shipwreck Bar. The special spot was originally created from the boat that Kona Village Resort founders Johnno and Helen Jackson's sailed along the coast, which was dragged ashore and transformed into a cocktail spot after sinking. Though the 2011 tsunami destroyed the previous iteration, the bar was lovingly rebuilt in its original location, framing the sunset beautifully. It's a corner of the island worth traveling for.
Canoe House
One of the buzziest dining experiences on the Big Island, Canoe House is Mauna Lani’s signature beachfront restaurant, where the mesmerizing glow of tiki torches and the sound of crashing waves set the scene for Chef Matt Yaso’s culinary craft. Order one of everything from the small-plates centric seasonal menu of Hawaiian ingredients prepared with a distinct Asian influence.
Miller & Lux
A modern American steakhouse by Tyler Florence, Miller & Lux opened in December at Four Seasons Hualalai, offering a clubbier option for diners who have had enough seared tuna salads. Known for 45-day dry-aged steaks, the outpost overlooking the golf course's 18th green emphasizes local ingredients like Big Island beef and Kauai shrimp, and the restaurant even partnered with local blacksmith Neil Kamimura for specialty steak knives.
Kealakekua Bay Snorkeling with Dolphins
Head to the world-famous Kealakekua Bay and along the way look for Hawaiian spinner dolphins and other marine animals. Wild Hawaiian Spinner Dolphins often rest along the coastline during the day and are frequently visible from the boat. There will be an underwater hydrophone to drop into the ocean to listen to their sounds and sonar. Once you reach the bay, you will be provided with everything you need for an amazing experience with the tropical reef dwellers.
Atlantis Submarine
Immerse yourself in an incredible underwater world on an Atlantis Submarine tour of Kailua Kona bay. This excursion offers a unique, up-close view of marine life, such as vibrant tropical fish, coral reefs, and shipwrecks, all from the comfort of a state-of-the-art air-conditioned submarine. Designed to provide a safe and comfortable aquatic experience, large viewing ports provide amazing views of the sea, and the ship has expert guides who will share their knowledge of the ocean and its inhabitants.
Volcano Express Night Tour
On this tour, you'll have the rare opportunity to view Kilauea erupting and see the spectacular glow of the lava lake at night. The Volcano Express Night Tour is only offered during volcanic eruptions and provides a once-in-a-lifetime experience to see the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park in the dark. The experience includes a stop at Punalu'u Bake Shop to enjoy local sweet delights before sinking your toes in the sand at Punalu'u Black Sand Beach, which is home to numerous nesting sea turtles. When night falls, you will head to the park to experience the tour's major highlight, and see the beautiful glow of the lava lake at night.
Island Hopper
With easy connections between islands, pair the slow pace of the Big Island with the lush landscapes of Lana'i, the surfer's paradise and cultural depths of Oahu, or the buzzy scene on Maui.
Asia-Pacific
If you've always wanted to visit Japan but think you'll need a vacation after that vacation, it's just over eight hours from Narita to Kona.
Ocean to Oceania
Okay, so you'll need to pop over to Honolulu from Kona first, but for travelers with time to spend, Hawaii is a perfect stopover en route to Australia or New Zealand - Quantas has a daily nonstop from Honolulu-Sydney, and Air New Zealand heads nonstop to Auckland once a day as well.