Postcard from Cape Town
We say that someone from the Local Foreigner team is always on the road, visiting destinations across the globe - but we really mean always. Our monthly Postcard takes you along for the ride, and this month, we're just back from Cape Town.
Cape Town feels at once immediately familiar and worlds away from life in the northern hemisphere. Tucked into the bottom corner of the African continent, the first written mention of the city was in 1488 by Portuguese explorer Bartolomeu Dias, and over the ensuing decades, it became a way station for European ships en route to the Indies. Architectural, culinary, and cultural features of the city still hearken back to the influence that Dutch, Indonesian, and British sailors imported between the 16th and 19th centuries.
It's difficult to do justice to the troubling history of the 20th century in South Africa in a pithy travel newsletter, and the ongoing aftershocks of 46 years of apartheid government are still apparent today. But with Mandela's election in April 1994, the country began its recovery, and over the last 30 years, Cape Town has become a thriving incubator of hopeful creativity. It's one of our favorite cities in the world, and we're so happy to share it with you.
One of the most multicultural cities in the world, Cape Town's dramatic topography is intrinsic to its character, with the city occupying the cozy nook between the looming Table Mountain and the sea. The 2010 World Cup sparked development of the V&A Waterfront, now a buzzy center of hotels, restaurants, and shops, but that's not the full story; in fact, the variety of neighborhoods is one of the Mother City's most notable assets. From the bright colored, flat-roofed houses of the Bo-Kaap to the surfer's paradise of Kalk Bay and the mural-lined streets of Woodstock, most first-timers to Cape Town are on a more comprehensive trip through South Africa. But the city puts a spell on many travelers, who return to revel in the fascinating culinary scene, creative maker movement, legendary hikes and waves, and unique wildlife.
Hiking shoes
A wet suit
An extra power bank
Mount Nelson, A Belmond Hotel
Cape Town’s grand dame opened its peach-colored doors 125 years ago, and today, the atmosphere remains delightfully traditional - but that doesn't mean it's stuck in time, as a strong commitment to local contemporary artists and activities like surf trips via pink VW bus named Nellie keep the vibes fresh. Spread across eight luscious acres and approached via an iconic palm-lined drive, the grounds are exquisitely manicured, and while rooms have been updated with modern conveniences, details like antique canopy beds make a lasting impression. As you stare across the postcard property toward Table Mountain, it's easy to imagine the hotel's hallowed halls filled with esteemed guests -- a young Winston Churchill on journalistic assignment, John Lennon meditating in the gardens, or a dignified Nelson Mandela enjoying afternoon tea on the terrace. | View the hotel
The Silo Hotel
There are city hotels, and then there are emblems of national pride. The Silo – a former grain elevator transformed by the deft hand of Liz Biden that stands above Table Bay like a proud and protruding symbol of African achievement – falls into the latter category. Sitting atop the Zeitz Mocaa, the foremost museum of contemporary African art, The Silo lends itself to lofty comparison. Inside its concrete walls, the stark juxtaposition of Biden’s colorful whimsy with the abstract works of local artists creates an unparalleled aesthetic experience that sets the standard for hotel interiors across the continent. Twenty eight rooms, seemingly housed within the building’s bulbous windows, tell the story of a city on the brink of brilliant self discovery. | View the hotel
One&Only Cape Town
A vibrant urban sanctuary on the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, the newly-renovated One&Only Cape Town sits in the cradle of the Mother City. Panoramic views of Table Mountain, spacious rooms with thoughtful details like organic materials and design inspired by the region's landscape, a meandering, palm-shaded pool, and with Southern Africa’s only Nobu mean the resort seamlessly combines luxury with local heritage. From sunrise hikes to immersive wine tastings, the programming at One&Only Cape Town captures the city’s unique spirit, and the rich local narrative is woven throughout the resort. From the ‘Watcher’ cocktails at Vista inspired by the legends of Table Mountain to the vivid Masa Mara prints at poolside Isola, the combination of polished service and local love makes One&Only Cape Town a perfect gateway to South Africa. | View the hotel
Ellerman House
When driving through Bantry Bay, the tony Cape Town neighborhood dubbed the "Cape Riviera," you wouldn't be remiss in thinking Ellerman House, which reopened in July following a two-month renovation, was just another private home – the real estate in this zip code the most expensive on the continent. And after being buzzed in the front door and greeted by a butler inside the relaxed, exquisitely decorated parlor, you'll begin to wonder if the hotel address in your itinerary was somehow replaced with that of some local art dealer's personal estate. But as staff members come to collect your luggage and escort you past the pool, and the palms, and the pitch perfect verandahs, you'll walk straight into your rose-colored reality: there's a room for you at this dazzling Edwardian mansion... and they've just given you the keys. | View the hotel
La Colombe
Located 20 minutes outside of town in Constantia, La Colombe is destination dining worth traveling for. The brainchild of chef Scot Kirton, La Colombe focuses on the power of presentation to delight diners with artistry. In an inviting space overlooking the manicured grounds of the Silvermist Wine Estate, guests are treated to a display of visual splendor that fuses the ingredients and preparation styles of French and Asian cuisine. Fresh seasonal produce, uncomplicated flavors, and classic elegance are the hallmarks of this legendary restaurant's success.
Neighbourgoods Market at the Old Biscuit Mill
A Saturday market in Cape Town's trendy Woodstock, Neighbourgoods is a must-stop for local crafts, artisanal souvenirs, and great local food stalls. Come hungry -- you'll want to sample everything from paella and dim sum to arancini and shakshuka.
Grub & Vine
Wines are divided into fun categories like "Bubble & Squeak" and "The Bold & The Beautiful" at this chic and breezy bistro in the center of Cape Town's buzzing Bree Street. Chef Matt Manning honed his bonafides in London kitchens under the likes of Gordon Ramsay, but there's a sense of relaxation under his own roof, where he describes his cuisine as "no-nonsense, good grub."
The Gin Bar
Hidden in a courtyard in Cape Town's City Center, the Gin Bar's focus is - understandably - South African gins. There are more than 70 local types behind the bar, and a comprehensive (and cheeky) menu of g&ts designed to "cure" everything from disconnection from life's purpose to impulse buying. Stop by to brush up on your botanicals so you know what to order for sundowners when you head to the bush.
Kloof Street House
Housed in a Victorian mansion, the eclectic Kloof Street House is a feast for the senses. The home’s original rooms have been kept intact, to create intimate, individually decorated dining spaces across the property. Outlandish colors and eccentric design form an aesthetic of cohesive whimsy – filigreed floral wallpaper, fringed lampshades, chesterfield sofas, religious and tribal portraiture. The menu is equally varied, pulling inspiration from France, Morocco, and Italy. And with any meal, a drink from the restaurant’s inventive cocktail list is essential.
The Pot Luck Club
A standout in the Luke Dale Roberts group (which also includes Shortmarket Club and TTK Fledgelings), The Pot Luck Club has been one of Cape Town's buzziest restaurants since it opened in 2013. The industrial chic dining room serves up tapas-style shared plates, categorized by five distinct tastes: salty, sweet, sour, bitter, and umami. The atmosphere is conducive to trying new flavors, like Malay pickled fish, Doenjang spiced tuna, and tamarind glazed calamari.
Cape Peninsula Helicopter Flight & The Deep South
Embark on a serene journey to the quieter side of the Cape Peninsula, where mountains meet the sea, baboons occasionally interrupt traffic, and penguins find refuge among colossal boulders. Explore charming fishing villages, steeped in history, guided by your private guide. This off-the-beaten-path adventure begins with a thrilling helicopter flight, granting you a bird's-eye view of the Cape Peninsula and Cape Point, the continent's southwestern tip. A special landing at Millers Point awaits, followed by a visit to Boulders Beach, home to a colony of African penguins. Afterward, venture further south into Cape Point Nature Reserve, a paradise for nature lovers and photographers, teeming with diverse flora and fauna. Enjoy a gourmet picnic lunch amidst this natural beauty, provided by your guide.
Cape Town Eats
So much about a country and a culture is expressed through its cuisine. In South Africa, much of the cuisine is a “home cuisine,” and to get a taste, you really need to search. This tour aims to combine the history of the country and city through exploring the back streets, to find the tastes that represent the entire rainbow nation. Today, you will walk the streets of Cape Town with a private guide and experience its history, its people, and its gourmet delights. En route, you will stop to taste a mixture of traditional Indian and African food, South African street food, and visit some artisanal foodie and coffee shops. Visit the colorful Bo-Kaap to taste Cape Malay dishes, sample a local milk tart, and learn about Cape Town's vital role in the spice trade.
Robben Island with a Private Guide
Avoid the crowds with a private guide on Robben Island, who will lead you through the prison on an exclusive access tour. Then, in your private vehicle, explore the island's historical landmarks, including the Leper Graveyard and Limestone Quarries, while hearing the remarkable story of Nelson Mandela, South Africa's first democratically elected President, who spent 18 of his 27 years of incarceration here.
The Full Slate
Pair Cape Town with a few nights in the Winelands, some time along the dramatic Cape coast, and a couple of safari lodges, and you've got one of the globe's best single-country itineraries.
Bush Baby
The Mother City is the perfect place to get your feet under you before heading out to the more remote reaches of southern Africa - non-stop flights to Windhoek, Maun, and Victoria Falls mean Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, and Zimbabwe pair perfectly.
The World's Most Epic Day Trip
A 5-hour flight from Cape Town to Wolf’s Fang Runway means it's possible to have a champagne picnic lunch in Antarctica and return to South Africa in the same day. Yes, really.