A Cozy Irish Thanksgiving
Holidays at Adare Manor
We’re Ireland evangelists here at Local Foreigner. As many of our team members are based in the New York area, we’re constantly shouting from the rooftops that it takes less time to fly to Dublin than it does to Los Angeles. And while the Irish capital is perfect for a weekend of pub crawling and enjoying excellent restaurants, if you have a few extra days, we highly recommend hopping in a rental car (or hiring a jolly driver guide!) and exploring the very accessible and totally gorgeous countryside.
Over Thanksgiving, TLF Partner Alex Erdman Ely jumped on a plane with her husband and two sons, ages 3 and 1, for a cozy sojourn around the southern half of the country. The Emerald Isle is gorgeous in the summer, when sunny afternoons are perfect for countryside strolls, but the destination is especially well-equipped for blustery fall nights in front of the fire (after all, one of its nicknames is Hibernia.) Follow along below for their very cozy, very castle-y itinerary.
After a transatlantic flight from New York to Dublin, we hopped into a rental car with only a few fusses from the back seat and made our way southwest across the country to the Park Hotel Kenmare. Tucked into the heart of County Kerry, the hotel boasts manicured gardens that stretch to the shores of Kenmare Bay. This is the Ireland we were looking for, with its rugged coastal drives and tons of outdoor activities. When you’re feeling especially wind-swept, the hotel’s spa is a major focus (and of course the bar pulls a mean Guinness.)
Kenmare itself is ridiculously picturesque, with rows of primary colored buildings lined up at the foot of rolling green hills. We strolled through the charming streets to our favorite dinner of the trip at Lime Tree. The restaurant is housed in a stone building that dates to the early 19th century, and the roaring fire, rustic wooden tables, Irish linen napkins, and fine-dining twist on Irish ingredients like goat cheese croquettes with beet chutney or roast rack of Kerry lamb were justification enough for the overnight flight.
“[Kenmare] is the Ireland we were looking for, with its rugged coastal drives and tons of outdoor activities. When you’re feeling especially wind-swept, the hotel’s spa is a major focus (and of course the bar pulls a mean Guinness.)”
After a couple of nights in Kenmare, we continued two hours north to the totally epic Adare Manor. It’s not often that I add a new hotel to my top ten list, but Adare easily makes the cut. While the hotel recently underwent a top-to-toe renovation, its rich history dates all the way back to 1897. Originally conceived as a diversion for the 2nd Earl of Dunraven, it eventually evolved into a grand Neo-Gothic masterpiece. The estate has a whopping 840 acres of parklands and gardens, and the elegant main house has all the grandeur you could want (including gargoyles!) The golf course at Adare is seriously legit - they’re hosting the Ryder Cup in 2027 - so my husband managed to squeeze in a few rounds.
Heading north, we stopped for lunch at Vaughan's Anchor Inn in Liscannor, a quaint village along the Wild Atlantic Way, before continuing our journey to the awe-inspiring Cliffs of Moher, which is one of those sites that truly drops your jaw and makes you wax poetic about the world’s natural beauty. I’ve see the cliffs on gorgeous summer days and shrouded with fog in the fall, and no matter the weather, the drama never disappoints.
Two hours north of the cliffs, we pulled into Ashford Castle. Built in 1228 on a monastic site, and with a history spanning nearly 800 years, Ashford has seen it all, and being there is the epitome of cozy grandeur. The Castle organizes a carol service at the on-property chapel, and I was totally content to sit by the fire with a mug of mulled wine, surrounded by the ornate woodwork, fabulous pattern mixing, and miles of heavy, jewel-toned drapes.
We also got off property and explored the romantic coast in our wellies, learned to cook up local catch in a seaside farmhouse, baked up some fresh brown bread, and warmed up with a gin tasting at Drioglann Loch Measc, a local micro distillery.
“Dublin’s Palace Bar is always a good time, but when the sun sets early and the Christmas lights click on, I challenge anyone to not feel flushed and festive. ”
No trip to Ireland is complete without at least a quick stop in Dublin to sneak in some shopping around Grafton Street (which does holiday decorations very well) and enjoy dinner - the dining scene in the Fair City is frankly awesome and shines especially bright at this time of year, with menus full of silky sauces, pickled veg, and local game. We spent a quick and comfy night at the Westbury, and of course dropped into Palace Bar for a pint in the snug. This Fleet Street legend is always a good time, but when the sun sets early and the Christmas lights click on, I challenge anyone to not feel flushed and festive. Sláinte, Ireland - keeping my Barbour jacket at the ready in hopes of a return in the near future!
